10 Shield Nickels Worth Money

10 Shield Nickels Worth Money: Key Dates, Proof-Only Issues, and Varieties

Quick answer:

The Shield nickels most worth checking first include the 1877 and 1878 proof-only issues, the 1880 business strike, the low-mintage 1879 and 1881 dates, and varieties such as the 1879/8 proof and 1883/2 overdate. Condition, originality, and certification matter a lot with this series.

Shield nickels were struck from 1866 to 1883 and were the first U.S. five-cent coins made from the familiar copper-nickel alloy. They are not modern pocket-change finds, but they do show up in old collections, type sets, estate boxes, and dealer bulk lots.

The biggest money in Shield nickels usually comes from proof-only dates, very low-mintage business strikes, high-grade examples, and properly attributed varieties. All regular Shield nickels were made at Philadelphia, so do not look for a mint mark. Look at the date, reverse style, strike quality, and whether the coin has been cleaned or damaged.

Years1866-1883

Composition75% copper, 25% nickel

Weight5.00 grams, plain edge

Key checkDate, proof status, rays, and overdates

10 Shield Nickels Worth Checking

1. 1877 Proof-only Shield nickel: No circulation strikes were issued for 1877, and PCGS lists a proof mintage of 510. Genuine, problem-free examples can sell for thousands depending on grade and eye appeal.

2. 1878 Proof-only Shield nickel: Like 1877, this was a proof-only year. PCGS lists a 2,350 mintage, making it more available than 1877 but still a major date for Shield nickel collectors.

3. 1880 business strike: PCGS notes that 1880 has the lowest mintage of any circulation-strike Shield nickel. Because prooflike business strikes and proofs can be confused, certification is especially important.

4. 1879 business strike: The 1879 is another low-mintage circulation issue. PCGS describes it as the second-lowest mintage business strike in the series, behind only 1880.

5. 1881 business strike: PCGS reports a mintage of 68,800, making it a scarce date. Lower-grade examples are collectible, and attractive Mint State pieces can be much stronger.

6. 1867 With Rays: The first reverse style had rays between the stars around the large 5. The rays were removed during 1867 because the design was difficult to strike, so the With Rays type is a key design variety.

7. 1867 With Rays Proof: PCGS notes that With Rays proofs are excessively rare. This is not a normal circulation find, but it is one of the major trophy pieces in the series.

8. 1873 Closed 3: Early 1873 coins used a date style where the 3 can look tight or almost like an 8. The Closed 3 is the scarcer date style compared with the Open 3.

9. 1879/8 Proof: The 1879/8 overdate is a variety where the final digit shows evidence of being punched over an 8. Strong attribution and certification matter here.

10. 1883/2 Overdate: PCGS describes the 1883/2 as scarce compared with normal 1883 Shield nickels, and Uncirculated examples are tough to find.

How To Identify A Better Shield Nickel

Start with the date. The strongest regular dates are 1879, 1880, and 1881, while 1877 and 1878 are proof-only issues. Then check the reverse: 1866 and part of 1867 have rays between the stars around the 5, while later coins do not.

For varieties, use magnification and compare the date carefully. The 1873 Closed 3, 1879/8, and 1883/2 need close inspection. A coin with heavy wear, corrosion, cleaning, or altered surfaces can still be collectible, but value can drop fast compared with an original certified example.

What Are Shield Nickels Worth?

Common circulated Shield nickels can be affordable type coins, but key dates and certified varieties can move into the hundreds or thousands of dollars. High-grade pieces, cameo proofs, and rare proof-only issues can sell for much more. Always check current PCGS or NGC price guides and recent auction records before buying, selling, or grading.

Common Mistakes To Avoid

Do not assume every old nickel is a rare one. Many Shield nickels have weak strikes, die cracks, corrosion, or cleaning. Also be careful with 1880 business strikes and proofs, because they can be confused. If the coin looks like a key date, overdate, or high-grade proof, third-party authentication is worth considering.

CoinHub tip: If you inherited old nickels, separate every Shield nickel by date before checking value. The date alone can make a huge difference, and the 1877, 1878, 1879, 1880, 1881, 1879/8, and 1883/2 pieces deserve a closer look.

Sources checked for this article include PCGS CoinFacts, the NGC U.S. Coin Price Guide, and the Shield nickel reference page on Wikimedia/Wikipedia. Helpful references: PCGS Shield Nickel overview, PCGS 1880 Shield Nickel, NGC Shield Nickel price guide.